Logos

The Americas 2013

A Motorcycle Diary
RSS
 

Archive for the ‘The Americas 2013’ Category

29 May 2013

29 May

Today we are catching the Ferry from Mazatlan to La Paz on The Baja California Peninsula so we had a “shortish” ride of 285km from Tepic in order to board the “Baja Ferries” Mazatlan Star at 13h00 for a 16h00 departure.

Days ride

Our days ride to Mazatlan..

The ride from Tepic was largely uneventful and through terrain that has swampy type inlets coming inland from the Pacific which make for some interesting scenery but other than that it was dry and hot.

We got into Mazatlan just after 12pm and got ourselves and the big girl checked in for the luxury cruise. The ship leaves Mazatlan and will cruise just over 400km overnight to La paz on the southern tip of the peninsula.

Ferry ride

The overnight ferry cruise

IMG_3507 IMG_3508

One of the reasons that we are crossing to the peninsula (other than wanting to visit Cabo San Lucas) is that the territory in Northern Mexico is considered quite dangerous as you may recall from some news reports from about a year ago relating to drug warfare between various “mafia” type groups which we don’t want to find ourselves caught between.

IMG_3514

 

28 May 2013

28 May

Today was a fairly long ride of 550km from San Miguel to Tepic which is a town on route to Mazatlan where we catch a ferry tomorrow afternoon to Baja California so it was all about making distance and Tepic is not a town that we would head to ordinarily as it is a bit of a dump!

days ride

Our days ride…

SAM_0748

Typical view on a Mexican road…

That aside, the route was quite pretty and it took us through a Unesco World heritage site devoted to the Agave plant and the Tequila industry which was great to see, that aside, the day was uneventful!

SAM_0759 SAM_0783

Miles and Miles of Agave plantations!!

 

27 May 2013

27 May

Because we are spending two nights in San Miguel de Allende we went out exploring today. It was a good decision to stay over as both Jax and I came to the conclusion that this has been the prettiest town we have seen and been to since Buenos Aires back in January. A real “bucket list” kind of place!!

SAM_0702

Looks like a fairy tale town…

Wikipedia..”The town waned during and after the war, and at the beginning of the 20th century was in danger of becoming a ghost town. Its Baroque/Neoclassical colonial structures were "discovered" by foreign artists who moved in and began art and cultural institutes such as the Instituto Allende and the Escuela de Bellas Artes. This gave the town a reputation, attracting artists such as David Alfaro Siqueiros, who taught painting. This attracted foreign art students, especially former U.S. soldiers studying on the G.I. Bill after the Second World War. Since then, the town has attracted a very large number of foreign retirees, artists, writers and tourists, which is shifting the area’s economy from agriculture and industry to commerce catering to outside visitors and residents. The main attraction of the town is its well-preserved historic center, filled with buildings from the 17th and 18th centuries. This and the nearby Sanctuary of Atotonilco have been declared World Heritage Sites.

SAM_0735

SAM_0711

SAM_0736

 

26 May 2013

26 May

Today was a short ride of approx 300km to a beautiful town north west of Mexico City called San Miguel De Allende. We are spending 2 nights here as numerous people that we have met in the last few months have commented on what a great little town this is.

Days ride

Our days ride…

SAM_0675

We got here at about 4pm because we had a lazy Sunday morning in MC and left at lunch time. The problem with this is that like all of South and Central America, when in the mountains, it rains almost every afternoon at this time of the year and today was no different although we were through it after about 10km. the rest of the afternoon and evening was spent at the rooftop Tapas bar eating an early dinner, a few drinks and watching the sunset.

IMG_3482

 

25 May 2013

25 May

Its not often that one gets to visit Mexico City so although the “Aztec” ruins of Teotihuacan are nearly 2 hours out of the city we felt that our investigation of the various different Indian ruins would not be complete without the inclusion of this great and impressive site, and Teotihuacan proved to be just that.

SAM_0628

We had a great guide that picked us up in the morning and walked us around the site for a few hours explaining the history and how it was discovered. Turns out that in 1905 a few railway workers that were constructing a railroad between Mexico city and a neighbouring town to the north were walking along during a heavy rainstorm when the vegetation on the one side of the pyramid of the sun came sliding off it and hence the discovery, otherwise, the ongoing belief that these were just small “koppies” could possibly have continued to this day.

SAM_0631

SAM_0648

Pyramid of the moon taken from the top of the Pyramid of the Sun.

Although it is commonly considered an Aztec site, it is thought rather that the the Aztecs may only have been influenced by this city and who were/are indigenous to this area. The Aztecs were considered the most powerful of the tribes in their day as they were a warring and fierce bunch however, they were only around for a short time between 1300 and 1500AD (long after the zenith of this city) and until the Spaniards arrived with long sticks that shot fire and that kind of created the idea that you shouldn’t take a knife to a gun fight!!

Wikipedia..“The city is thought to have been established around 100 BC and continued to be built until about 250 AD. The city may have lasted until sometime between the 7th and 8th centuries AD. At its zenith, perhaps in the first half of the 1st millennium AD, Teotihuacan was the largest city in the pre-Columbian Americas, with a population of perhaps 125,000 or more, placing it among the largest cities of the world in this period. Teotihuacan began as a new religious centre in the Mexican Highland around the first century AD. This city came to be the largest and most populated centre in the New World. Teotihuacan was even home to multi-floor apartment compounds built to accommodate this large population. The civilization and cultural complex associated with the site is also referred to as Teotihuacan or Teotihuacano. Although it is a subject of debate whether Teotihuacan was the centre of a state empire, its influence throughout Mesoamerica is well documented; evidence of Teotihuacano presence can be seen at numerous sites in Veracruz and the Maya region. The builders of Teotihuacan took advantage of the geography in the Basin of Mexico. From the swampy ground, they constructed raised beds, called chinampas. This allowed for the formation of channels, and subsequently canoe traffic to transport food from farms around the city. The earliest buildings at Teotihuacan date to about 200 BC. The largest pyramid, the Pyramid of the Sun, was completed by 100 AD.”

The site otherwise is VAST and only a quarter of it has been retrieved from the vegetation to date and its estimated that it will require at least another 50 years before the entire site has been cleaned of the covering vegetation.

SAM_0649

The Plaza with the Pyramid of the Sun in the distance…

The pyramids of the sun and the moon which are the celestial main points of the site are huge and the pyramid of the Sun particularly is not that much smaller than the pyramid of Giza. The site took a few exhausting hours to get around and climb to the top of, which is unique in that most of these historical pyramids just about anywhere in the world these days cannot be climbed for the sake of preservation.

SAM_0636

Pyramid of the Sun with crowds walking to the top…

 

24 May 2013

24 May

Today was the first of 2 days that we are staying in Mexico city so we decided to grab the common red “hop on, hop off” buses that enables one to see a big chunk of the important sites of the city whilst also being provided with a history lesson on this fantastic place.

SAM_0525

SAM_0536

The main church on the Zocalo in front of the presidential palace with the teachers union camped out in front protesting some amendment to the laws which according to them, will affect them adversely!

SAM_0553

Detail inside the church..

SAM_0569 SAM_0575

Some modern art and buildings mixed in about the beautiful older buildings of this great city….

SAM_0578

On route we decided to visit the Anthropological museum which is one of the largest I have ever been to but unsurprising considering the vastness and age of the myriad of cultures and tribes within Mexico.

SAM_0592 SAM_0596

Colossal Olmec head on the left which stands about 2m tall and warrior. These date back to approx 1500BC and the Olmecs are considered to be the mother civilisation for all of the Mesoamerican tribes!!

Mexico is a real smorgasbord of politics. Much like SA, there are a number of different tribes albeit Indian in this case and up to 500 years ago there was much warring and competition for land and resources. Then the Spanish arrived with their old world style of manipulative politics and although they were only a small group of some 500 men, they managed to conquer the entirety of South and Central America and Mexico and they managed to do this by not arguing with the idea that they were “white Gods” and by convincing certain tribes of wealth, freedom from domination from other, stronger tribes and manipulating these tribes to act for and with them when in need of slaves or warriors to carry out their intended strategies. As if 300 years of Spanish domination weren’t enough, when Mexico finally got its independence on 1810 it was a vast country stretching from the south eastern border of Guatemala right up to and including the US States of Arizona, Texas, California etc and super rich in resources which resulted in a number of parties wanting a slice of the cake. The country was just too vast for the inexperienced and young government to manage, so the northern states felt neglected and wanted independence which the US offered, albeit under the guise of one of the states of the USA.

According to Wikipedia, “The United States War Against Mexico, was an armed conflict between the United States and Mexico from 1846 to 1848 in the wake of the 1845 U.S. annexation of Texas, which Mexico considered part of its territory despite the 1836 Texas Revolution. Combat operations lasted a year and a half, from spring 1846 to fall 1847. American forces quickly occupied New Mexico and California, then invaded parts of Northeastern Mexico and Northwest Mexico; meanwhile, the Pacific Squadron conducted a blockade, and took control of several garrisons on the Pacific coast further south in Baja California. Another American army captured Mexico City, and the war ended in victory for the U.S. The Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo specified the major consequence of the war: the forced Mexican Cession of the territories of Alta California and New Mexico to the U.S. in exchange for $15 million. In addition, the United States assumed $3.25 million of debt owed by the Mexican government to U.S. citizens. Mexico accepted the loss of Texas and thereafter cited the Rio Grande as its national border.“ So effectively US$18.25m which calculated to today assuming an annual inflation rate of say 4% means that the cost today would be about US$294 Billion which is nothing to scoff at but a pittance in retrospect compared to just the Texan resources alone never mind everything else that came with it.

To add to the pressure, “the Franco-Mexican War, was an invasion of Mexico by the Second French Empire, supported in the beginning by United Kingdom and Spain. It followed President Benito Juárez‘s suspension of interest payments to foreign countries on 17 July 1861, which angered Mexico’s major creditors: Spain, France and Britain. Emperor Napoleon III of France was the instigator, justifying military intervention by claiming a broad foreign policy of commitment to free trade. For him, a friendly government in Mexico would ensure European access to Latin American markets. Napoleon also wanted the silver that could be mined in Mexico to finance his empire. Napoleon built a coalition with Spain and Britain while the U.S. was engaged in a full-scale civil war.The three European powers signed the Treaty of London on 31 October, to unite their efforts to receive payments from Mexico. On 8 December the Spanish fleet and troops arrived at Mexico’s main port, Veracruz. When the British and Spanish discovered however that France planned to seize all of Mexico, they quickly withdrew.The subsequent French invasion resulted in the Second Mexican Empire, which was supported by the Roman Catholic clergy, many conservative elements of the upper class, and some indigenous communities; the presidential terms of Benito Juárez (1858–71) were interrupted by the rule of the Habsburg monarchy in Mexico (1864–67). Conservatives, and many in the Mexican nobility, tried to revive the monarchical form of government (see: First Mexican Empire) when they helped to bring to Mexico an archduke from the Royal House of Austria, Maximilian Ferdinand, or Maximilian I who was married to Charlotte of Belgium, who changed her name to Carlota when she and Maximillian were sent to Trieste. France had various interests in this Mexican affair, such as seeking reconciliation with Austria, which had been defeated during the Franco-Austrian War of 1859, counterbalancing the growing American Protestant power by developing a powerful Catholic neighboring empire, and exploiting the rich mines in the north-west of the country.

I could spend hours talking about and pointing to historical resources about this fascinating place which makes it no surprise that it has such a deep and complex culture littered with as much ugliness and corruption as there is beauty and strength of human spirit!

SAM_0604 SAM_0607

These two are Aztec creations from about 1400AD, the one directly above representing the Aztec calender.

Dinner was at a fantastic restaurant in the city followed by a nightcap at a jazz club!

 

23 May 2013

23 May

Although we are pressing on to Mexico City today, from Puebla its a short run of only 133km so we got up early to go and explore the town and take some pics before heading off around lunchtime to MC. We started with breakfast on the square with a traditional Mexican breakfast which usually comprises of beans, chillies, eggs and cheese and Mexico is doing NOTHING for our waistlines!!!

SAM_0442

SAM_0446

Colourful streets of Puebla…

According to Wikipedia..“Puebla has 2,600 historic buildings, antiques, bars and pottery workshops. The downtown  is filled with churches, government buildings and large homes, built by indigenous hands for their Spanish overlords and the downtown was declared a Unesco world heritage site in 1987”.

SAM_0450

SAM_0464

The main cathedral of Puebla and an interior shot…

SAM_0481

Beautiful modern art sculptures amongst the old buildings…

The Capilla del Rosario is considered the 8th wonder of the world according to Puebla tourism and in fairness, it is incredibly beautiful and probably the most ornate piece of interior architecture that I have ever seen!! In addition to a host of beautiful old buildings Puebla is also peppered full of modern art sculptures and makes for a very interesting, arty and colourful town. The Palafoxiana library is considered the oldest library in the Americas and holds thousands of books dating from the 15th, 16th and 17th century.

SAM_0469

Palafoxiana library

SAM_0487

Interior of the Capilla del Rosario..

By 1pm, we were done with sightseeing and hit the road for Mexico city which was incredible to drive into because of the traffic and vastness. It took about 50 to 60km from the outskirts to the centre of the city where we are staying for the next 3 nights and looking forward to exploring this place notwithstanding its reputation as one of the most dangerous cities in the world!

Days ride

Our days ride…

 

22 May 2013

22 May

Because we bought some time on our schedule by doing Chichen Itza whilst in Tulum, we have a few days of flexibility because the next fixed point in the diary is only on the 29th when we catch a ferry from Mazatlan to La Paz on the Baja California peninsula where we are going to spend a couple of nights at Cabo San Lucas, so we have decided to head to a small town called Puebla which sounded interesting when we did some research, and I am very very glad we did because this little place is very beautiful!!!

The short 280km ride from Veracruz started with the usual unbearable heat but soon settled into more comfortable temps because Puebla is at an altitude of 2200m which made the ride through the twisty mountain roads really enjoyable. On the subject of roads, Mexico’s are brilliant!!!

Days ride

Our days ride… 

Puebla reminds me a lot of Cuenca in Ecuador because it is largely unheard of from a tourism perspective yet it is arguably one of the most beautiful towns that I have seen in Mexico thus far, even outstripping the popular tourist Mecca of San Cristobal de las casas!! Like Cuenca, it has small charming colourful streets and quaint European architecture mixed in with its own Mexican flavour making for a spectacular little place to visit. We unfortunately arrived a little late to fully enjoy the time during the day but the evening walk about and dinner gave us a good glimpse of what to expect tomorrow.

IMG_3446

IMG_3452

The towns main cathedral although there must be at least 15 churches that we counted just this evening…

 

21 May 2013

21 May

Today was a 300km ride to another coastal town called Veracruz where we were hoping to see the museum that is housing the Olmec colossal heads although when we got here we discovered that although the museum is called the Anthropology museum of Veracruz its actually based in a town some 100km away so we decided instead to spend the day by the pool drinking tequila and catching up on emails and blog.

Days ride

Our days ride…

Dinner was on the main square in the historic centre which is very much like San Cristobal in that it comes alive at sunset with bands playing, people dancing and kids running around and riding their bicycles.

SAM_0398

SAM_0415

Dancing in the square…

 

20 May 2013

20 May

We have done a relatively short ride of 330km today to a town called Coatzacoalcos. This is not a town that we would ordinarily head to as there is nothing there because its an industrial town on the Caribbean coast however, because of the heat it is not desirable to be doing distances of greater than 400km in any one day and to get to anywhere on our route that is more akin to what we usually look for would have required an additional 300km and so Coatzacoalcos it is. That said, we have struck it lucky with a hotel right on the seafront and we have a beautiful room looking out over the ocean.

Days ride

Our Days ride…

The ride from San Cristobal brought us down from an altitude of 2200m back to the coastal plain where the temps rocket into the high 30’s and the resulting change of mountainous, forested scenery to one of lush, humid jungle.

SAM_0378

SAM_0380

Pete Davies suggested that I put pics of all of the Mayan ruins we have seen thus far alongside one another to show the differences which I though was a good idea as it shows the cultural differences of this enigmatic and vastly spread out civilisation…

Ruin comparison