The Americas: Heading South

Marfa continued to enchant this morning. We had breakfast at an old Mexican diner called Mando’s and after some “interesting” Huevos Rancheros we prayed for no Montezuma’s revenge whilst riding between stops!!

The ride from Marfa up route 17 to Fort Davis and onwards to the I10 is motorcycling heaven! Long winding sweeps, beautiful scenery and great little towns. This all however comes to a crashing end once you cross the I10 onto route 285 which is an industrial run of oil riggers making their way North and South from Pecos. The road is heavily potholed and one competes for space with the riggers and not a route I would recommend. Kind of reminded me of The Dalton but for the lack of scenery!

Beautiful route 17, Texas.

Fort Davis, Texas..really worth a visit.

Rupert continues to gain confidence with every riding day and is beginning to get that biker swagger!

It all eventually comes down to this along 285. Miles and Miles of oil donkeys!!

The fascinating thing about the riding is not so much about the bike, or even about the travel (both of which I love by the way) but is more about the amount of headspace one is afforded when locked away in the Kevlar prison! My life (and most people’s I am sure) is so consumed by work and family demands and pressures, that down time is usually made up of some inane activity to simply switch off the incessant chattering of my mind! work this, meet that, call this, do that etc etc…I am sure most can identify. The beauty of the bike is that after the first few days of settling into the ride, my mind eventually starts to shut the F*ck up and although some might consider that the verbal debate between me and me would make me a prime candidate for institutionalisation, it generally produces healthy and progressive thoughts and ideas about my own development as a man, a husband, a father etc and it is therefore likely that this sort of thing is something I will continue to do well into my very old age, and hopefully my blue gnome(s) will be joining me again in a couple of years.

Today’s 420km ride from Marfa, Texas to Roswell, New Mexico

Tonight we are spending the evening in Roswell, New Mexico, the town famed for the (alleged) UFO crash landing in 1947. The place trades, and is heavily reliant on this myth for its commercial survival as every second shop is about alien/UFO/otherworldly memorabilia.

We were due to continue to head north tomorrow to Santa Fe, but have decided against continuing along route 285 and instead we are going to head west, towards Arizona and the Cibola and Gila National forests which will be awesome I am sure!

We got an early start out of San Antonio but not before we stopped to see the famed “Alamo” that has been ever present in so many westerns whilst growing up.

Today was the first day that we got a real sense of the vastness of the state of Texas! It just goes on for mile after beautiful unspoilt mile and can see why this place holds such an enchanted place in the mind of this nation. Once we broke away from the I10 to head for Marfa the landscape took on the feel of being in an old John Wayne movie and I couldn’t help but wonder what it must have been like for somebody cruising through here on a horse 200 years ago. The temps were in the mid 30C’s not much water around and just vastness all the way to the horizon.

The Days ride..

I had read about Marfa when researching the route and all the reports used words like “cute”, “typical small town Americana”, “weird” and many other interesting descriptives. We arrived in Marfa just after lunch and there may as well have been tumbleweed blowing across the street….but in fairness, it was Sunday afternoon! Quiet aside, we checked into a wonderful old hotel called the Paisano built in the 1930’s and a real step back in time. The place is old, but immaculately maintained and the staff couldn’t do enough to help.

The Alamo

The afternoon was spent handling chores (laundry…my worst!), the blog, swimming etc before an early dinner capped off by a ride about 15km out of town to see the famed Marfa lights. No one has been able to provide an explanation for these mysterious lights on the horizon that have been reported for over 130 years that show up most evening. The speculation ranges from swamp gas (although there are no swamps around), Car lights creating mirage’s in the air (but what about the part that this was reported as early as the 1800’s?) to other weird and wonderful speculation. I have no idea but they were certainly interesting to see although I was unable to capture a photo so if you are interested, this will tell you more.. The Marfa lights.

Big Texas..

The Marfa Lights..Courtesy of the internet (not my photograph)

Tomorrow we head for Roswell New Mexico, the town famed for its supposed UFO crash landing in the 1950’s.

Well we went looking for dinner and a bar in Houston last night and found a lot more than we had bargained for. The evening started at the Flying Saucer, a great bar/restaurant in the city, followed by a dive bar with pool tables and then on route back to the hotel, we discovered a fantastic place playing live 80’s music. The evening was certainly entertaining not to mention the copious quantity of beer to match so this morning was a very very slow start out of Houston.

My overall impression of Houston is that I am really impressed with the city. It is vast when travelling through it and being a real estate guy, I was super impressed with the architectural diversity of what all those oil dollars have built!

Today was fortunately a short ride of some 300km to San Antonio and we only got going after lunch when the prospects of afternoon thundershowers had dramatically increased. The weather did not disappoint as we were caught in numerous little showers on route, and one massive one just before arrival in San Antonio.

The days ride..

We checked into a fantastic hotel right on the river where there is a whole lot of life and restaurants and although we went out for a quick dinner, it was a demure evening by comparison. Tomorrow we have a very long 650km ride to Marfa so its early to bed.

Me on the river walk in San Antonio…

We left New Orleans at 7:00 because we had 530km to do today, it was Rupert’s first day on the bike in some 20 years and because the heat is unbearable if we were to leave any later.

The ride today was to Houston, Texas and although a little rusty, Rups did brilliantly. The ride up I10 was largely uneventful and there is seldom much to see when simply blitzing along a freeway.

The Days ride..

We are spending the night at the Lancaster in the centre of Houston and hoping to get out for some dinner and live entertainment tonight. All in all nothing to report today as it was all about making sure Rup was settling in.

Rupert on his spanking new GS1200..

I have spent the last 2 days in New Orleans resting, catching up on work and exploring this beautiful and historic city. I mentioned that I may not be able to sustain the noise from Bourbon street at the hotel I had checked into on the 16th and although a great hotel with great reviews, the noise was unbearable, and made worse by the fact that I had specifically requested a street facing room so that I could witness the action…mistake!! At 2am, and not having been able to sleep because of the combination of the soapbox preacher (microphone in hand), the street rappers, the brass band and the throngs of drunkards,I came to the conclusion that I would not be able to stay here. This was just an ordinary Tuesday night afterall and not even Mardi Gras!!!

Needless to say, I checked out and moved to a new place that although still proximate to Bourbon street, it was on the lower end closer to Canal street where there are less strip clubs and bars and their associated crowds.

Rupert arrived on the evening of the 17th and after a late and quick supper, we walked around for a short while before retiring.

We collected Rupert’s bike that he is renting to ride from New Orleans to LA on the 18th and whilst we were both expecting some clapped out, well worn and old bike (as one would with a rental) we were both super impressed with the brand new BMW 1200GS they gave him with all of 50 miles on the clock! Eagle Rider in New Orleans had him in and out of there within 20 minutes. Great Service guys!!

We spent the rest of the day and evening exploring the French Quarter and had some great experiences in the many bars and restaurants that this vibrant city has to offer.

I got out of Birmingham, Alabama by 8am as I wanted to skip the primary heat of the day and get to New Orleans as soon as possible to rest up for a few days, catch up on work and get to explore the area a little. Insofar as skipping the heat was concerned, there was no such luck! It was 30C by 8am and it just kept getting hotter. It was 35C by the time I got into New Orleans at 2pm.

It was a 580km ride down the last stretch of what was the I81 and now the I59. The entire stretch if I81 and its various iterations down to new Orleans has been an incredibly beautiful and scenic ride to do. It has had variety in the form of many small and quaint towns, forests, mountains, lakes and then down into the Gulf plains and the swamplands and would genuinely recommend it as an alternative route south.

Today’s ride to New Orleans…

On arrival into New Orleans, I checked into a hotel just off Bourbon street (the main heart of the French quarter that becomes pedestrianised at night) and whilst a lovely hotel, the noise emanating from Bourbon street has made me question whether this place will be sustainable for more than one night. I will let you know in the morning!!

Vibrant Bourbon street, New Orleans!

Slow but interesting start to a long day today. One of the benefits of spending the night in a place like Rockwood, is that you are quickly made to feel like part of the family. For me, who is currently spending long stretches alone at the moment, this family warmth was wonderful. What is even more interesting, I discovered this morning over breakfast with the family, that the house has been in the same family since inception and has simply made its way down through the generations and is now in the hands of Fred and Sarah Drummond, the Great, Great Grandson of the original builders, Francis and Sarah Bell.

Rockwood

I had planned to only ride to Chattanooga today but by the time I was some 100km away, I decided I was feeling adequately fresh to push on a little further and have therefore made it as far south as Birmingham, Alabama. It turned out to be a 750km day and although my body is protesting, that ol riding  fitness is definitely beginning to kick back in. The ride down I81 has been fantastic, scenic and with wonderful and picturesque rural little towns to see. I would highly recommend it as a road trip route!

I was only due to arrive in New Orleans on Wednesday but I am going to push through tomorrow as that will afford me a day of dealing with my office in London who have been phoning and emailing incessantly!! I’m on a bike guys!!

Rups is due to arrive on Wednesday evening and looking forward to spending the time with him.

Today’s 750km ride..

Today was a fantastic 470km ride down to a town called Dublin, Virginia off I81 as I make my way to New Orleans to meet Rupert on Wednesday. Instead of the expedient route down which would typically follow I95 via Charlotte and Atlanta, I have elected to go inland and see parts of the US which are more off the beaten track where I can sample typical Americana in a way one wouldn’t ordinarily as a tourist.

Saying goodbye to Bert and Margaret after a wonderful evening at their beautiful home.

This decision has immediately paid dividends with the first 150km running down Skyline drive through Shenandoah national park (which was awesome), followed by a twisty road through rural Virginia where I stopped at a typical roadhouse called Dan’s steakhouse alongside the road for lunch. The weather at the moment is unbearably hot so the altitude of the skyline drive was a cool reprieve until I came down and joined I81 again.

Days ride..

Dan’s…

A lesson I have learned before but had forgotten today is to read the weather. Usually, when the weather is hot and humid in the morning, there are typically thunder showers in the afternoon. Today was no different and when I was only 50km from my destination where I would be spending the night, the heavens opened with all taps running at full pressure. I was soaked through within 60 seconds as I didn’t bother to stop and put on rain gear figuring it would be over in a few minutes…..it wasn’t, and by the time I stopped for cover it almost seemed pointless!!!

I am spending the night at a fantastic bed and breakfast called Rockwood’s which is a historical house built in 1876. Rockwood is set in the middle of a farm in rural Virginia with views over the mountains. What made this place particularly special was the note on the door on my arrival. It said “We have gone out, let yourself in and make yourself at home”! I did, and had the best nights sleep!

Although dinner with Roma last night was wonderful, I fear that we may have consumed too much wine and rich food. This is a bad combination when combined with jetlag and a desire to ride some 400km the next day for the first time in nearly 2 years!! 2 sleeping tablets, a couple of panados and a bottle of water have seen me wake up bleary eyed, like all good bikers, and ready to tackle the road!!

I Picked up the bike from BMW of Manhattan this morning, got my packing finished up and went through everything that we had left packed in the panniers back in 2013 to make sure that I had everything I needed. My preparation for these trips definitely becomes more cavalier every time I embark on one of these journeys. This is not a good thing as I have started to realise that there are a myriad of things that I have forgotten to bring!

A beautiful NY day!!

To add to the moment, on my arrival at the four seasons yesterday, the doorman George who originally welcomed us into NY at the completion of our ride in 2013 was there to greet me. It made me feel like we had never left!!  Today I head for Reston, Virginia where I will be spending the night with our old friends Bert and Margaret Hilfenstein that we met on board the Endeavour in Alaska in August 2013. We have kept in touch and when they heard I would be passing nearby this weekend they very kindly offered for me to stay.

Departing from the four seasons is always a treat!

The route out of Manhattan was typically congested notwithstanding the weekend, and the ride down I95 was uneventful but sweltering. I covered 370km and realised just how bike UN-fit I am.

Loving being on the road again.

My days ride…

Its been nearly 2 years since I last wrote in the blog and suggested that I may start the trip to head south back to Buenos Aires. That time has now come.

Since Jacqui and I got off the bike in September 2013 life has been somewhat of a whirlwind…to say the least! Jacqui and I moved to London in October 2013, Started the UK business of Griffin, got married in April 2014, had a beautiful daughter called Sasha in October 2014, and have continued to move around the globe like maniacal people on a mission to squeeze every drop of life out of the 90 odd years that are afforded to us!!

Jax and Sasha

In September 2013, when Jax and I got off the bike (and needed cosmetic ass surgery), I swore it would be a long time before I could be lured back on! Unfortunately, this stuff is in ones blood and the calling of the road is strong. Tomorrow I start the first of what will hopefully be four or five trips spread over a few years to take the BMW back down to Buenos Aires and notwithstanding the dim memory of sore bodies, uncomfortable long stretches and dodgy accommodation and food, I am super excited to experience the freedom of the open road again.

On this coming leg, which will be to take the bike from New York to LA to position her to ultimately head back into Mexico and Central America, I will be doing it without Jacqui because Sasha is currently only 8 months old and notwithstanding much debate around her wellbeing in a sidecar, Jax put her foot down firmly!!…unreasonable! I know!! All is not lost though because my business partner and close friend Rupert Hackwill will be meeting me in New Orleans next week and will be riding with me to LA.

The BMW has for the last 2 years spent a very warm, safe and comfortable time in the basement building of our good friends Al and Roma Connable in Long Island. Al was very sadly lost to us in 2014 but his memory remains strong. Roma, thank you for looking after our baby for all this time, she couldn’t have been in better hands anywhere.

Dinner with the lovely Roma