We left San Pedro de Atacama today with the intention of heading to Iquique about 200km from the Peruvian border that we are wanting to cross tomorrow.
Because we had heard so much about the beauty of the El Tatio Geysers only 90km from San Pedro we decided it would be a good idea to go to the Geysers first before heading to Iquique. We queried the road conditions with the staff at the hotel before leaving because we knew from the map that the road to the geysers was dirt, and they advised us that the road was “just fine”!!…
So we head off and at first the road IS fine albeit dirt that is hard packed. Within 20km from San Pedro however,the road has deteriorated into an absolute mess..huge rocks, craters, thick sand and to add to it all, we were rapidly climbing in altitude into the Andes. After about 45 minutes of this Jax has a headache and is feeling nauseous, so I take a quick look at our altitude and it turns out that we are now over 4000m and still some 50km from the Geysers! Crap!
The GPS Graph of our ride today..
Turning around wasn’t an option because the road had been so bad, so we pushed on in the hope that the road would improve, we would see the geysers and then head on with our journey! Unfortunately, it didn’t improve,the altitude peaked at 4522m and it took us over 2 hours to do the 90km to the geysers. Although the altitude definitely impacts negatively on concentration and the physicality of managing a fat BMW plus pillion plus luggage on roads like these, I must say that although I would have LOVED the KTM today, lil Fatty delivered the goods Just Fine…In fact, I am certain she lost a few pounds today and has started to look a little more attractive to me!!
El Tatio Geysers..
Notwithstanding how difficult the ride and the conditions of today were, we are both over the moon about the fact that we did this ride. It was truly a once in a lifetime experience to witness this part of the world. Its mountainous desert surrounded by snow capped peaks. Very little grows up there but the air is crisp and the landscape littered with Vicunas (a type of lama) and endless beautiful vistas.
Our ride today was only some 220km but when we got to Calama, a town only 100km from San Pedro at about 16h30, we decided to not push on any further. We are spending the night here and will depart early tomorrow for the Peruvian border.
El Tatio Geysers..
Roberto Román L.
February 24, 2013 at 6:45 pm
Dear Rui and Jacquie:
Glad you made it to the Geysers. I didn’t think you could make it in the BMW. Not an easy road, the tires perhaps not the most adequate and the weight and altitude don’t help either.
Anyhow, that place is incredible. The first time I went up was in 1971 or thereabouts. The last time in 2001. Fortunately I’m quite resistant to altitude (not the case for Cristy though).
The geysers and vistas are magnificent. If you look closely, one can also find precolumbian ruins.
Glad you took the circular route. On the way back you pass through “La Cuesta del Diablo” (the Devil’s road). Is it paved today?
This passes right alongside Toconce and Chiu Chiu. But since your schedule is tight, you probably just zipped by.
We’ll e-mail you the photo I took in Tal Tal shortly. We just got back home and I’ll start the routine next week.
Glad we met you two guys in Tal Tal, and we hope that you have a wonderful trip the rest of the way.
We’ll keep looking at your blog and posting comments from time to time…
Yours truly,
Roberto and Cristina…
PS1: I just read the “about” at the start of this blog. As someone who recently turned 67, I can tell you that also I had an identity crisis when I turned 40. It’s quite typical. If it’s any help, the older you get, new birthdays are taken more for granted (or one becomes more shameless). So your trip is an excellent treatment: see the world, meet people, enjoy day to day…
PS2: I looked over your post from Patagonia and Santiago. When you have time, read Charles Darwin Diary from the Beagle. He passed many of the same places you went. And its great reading (easy to find online)…
Grant
February 24, 2013 at 9:40 pm
Did any of those geysers recognize u as one of their own…a long lost mate from a once joined up continent? 😉
Sharon
February 27, 2013 at 3:22 am
Really amazing trip, so many beautiful places its really great reading your updates. I lost my settings so couldn’t find your blogs but all good now.
Bon
March 1, 2013 at 3:47 pm
LLAMAAAAAAAAAAAAAA